Our Family’s German Adventure: Castles, Chocolate, and Culture
View of Cochem (on the Mosel River).
Why Germany? (When There Are So Many Other Choices)
Germany wasn’t the obvious choice. When we first started dreaming up this trip, we tossed around ideas like Italy (which we finally made happen six years later) and Scotland—a strong contender since the boys were deep in their Viking-lore phase and would’ve happily spent a week wielding imaginary axes in the Highlands. But somehow, Germany kept tugging at us—a quiet pull toward a place that promised both discovery and connection.
For us, this trip wasn’t just about seeing the sights. It was about roots. My family’s ancestry traces back to Germany, and we wanted our kids to experience the country not as a list of tourist stops, but as a living, breathing part of their story. We wanted them to walk the same cobblestone streets their great-great-grandparents might have walked, hear the church bells echo through small towns, and taste the same hearty comfort foods that once filled their ancestors’ kitchens.
Beyond that personal connection, Germany just fit our family. It’s a country that blends old-world charm with kid-approved adventure better than almost anywhere else. Where else can you visit a centuries-old castle in the morning, slide down into a salt mine by afternoon, and end the day with a pretzel bigger than your head? Add in Alpine coasters, river surfing, medieval villages, and enough history to keep Bryan happily narrating for days, and we had our perfect destination.
Germany gave us everything we were looking for—history for Bryan, castles for Callan, hands-on adventure for Jake, laid-back days for Max, and heartfelt connection for me. It wasn’t just another European vacation; it was a chance to connect with our past, laugh together, and come home with memories (and photo evidence) we’ll cherish forever.
So yes, Italy and Scotland are still amazing—but for that summer, Germany was exactly where we were meant to be.
Trip Snapshot: Germany with Teens
Travelers: Bryan, Heidi. Callan (11), Jake (10), Max (7)
When: June 2016—those golden days when school’s out, the sun lingers well into the evening, and everyone’s still getting along... until someone steals the last bite of pretzel!
Destinations:
Munich – 3 days of cycling through history, beer gardens, and more pretzels than we care to count.
Garmisch-Partenkirchen – 4 days of castles, salt caves, and day trips to Austria (Salzburg & Innsbruck).
Malberg – 5 days of family reunions, history, cathedrals, and culture (Trier & Cologne).
Getting Around:
In the cities, we mostly walked or hopped on buses and trains—because finding parking in downtown Munich is about as easy as convincing teenagers to agree on a playlist. We didn’t need a car until we hit the countryside, at which point the rental car became our best friend. The roads were smooth, scenic, and surprisingly easy to navigate—even when the GPS insisted we’d crossed into Austria... again.
Accommodations:
We stayed in a mix of kid-friendly hotels in southern Germany—perfectly located near the sights—before heading north to stay with family in the Eifel region. Nothing beats homemade German food, stories from relatives, and watching the kids run around my old childhood playground to make a trip feel extra special.
Trip Goals:
We were after a blend of culture, history, and Alpine adventure, with a side of reconnecting with family and ancestry. Between castles, pretzels, glaciers, and family time, we got everything we were hoping for—plus a few wrong turns, plenty of laughs, and memories that still bring smiles all these years later.
Munich — Bavaria’s Beating Heart (Days 1- 3)
Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall)
First Impressions of Munich
We landed in Munich bright and early—8:30 AM local time, which felt like 2:30 AM to our internal clocks. From the airport, we hopped on the S-Bahn (Germany’s version of a commuter train) for a smooth 40-minute ride straight to the Hilton Munich City stop (Rosenheimer Platz train station). And here’s where German efficiency really shines: the train platform sits directly beneath the hotel. We simply rolled our luggage off the train, up one escalator, and—boom—found ourselves in the hotel lobby. No taxis, no transfers, no tears. Just travel perfection.
Munich greeted us with a mix of big-city energy and Bavarian charm. The air smelled like someone was simmering a rich, meaty gravy while baking pretzels the size of steering wheels. My taste buds perked up instantly, though the rest of my body was still filing a complaint about the lack of sleep.
Bryan was immediately taken by how seamlessly Munich blends old-world architecture with modern precision. “It’s like King Ludwig met Tesla and they decided to make it work,” he said, already halfway through his first kaffee.
Callan, our detail-oriented observer, was glued to the window on the train, marveling at the tidy streets, church steeples, and flower-boxed windows. “It’s like a storybook, only cleaner.” So true.
Jake, ever motivated by his stomach, was on high alert for food. Smelling baked goods wafting from the hotel’s cafe, he asked if we could grab some lunch before checking in. It was 10:00 AM. When I told him that they were still serving breakfast, he shrugged and deadpanned that he had no objection to eating a second breakfast . . . and then lunch in two hours!
Our laid-back little traveler, Max, was perfectly content to flop into a lobby chair and declare, “This is my favorite part so far.” Jet lag: 1, Max: 0.
Thankfully, the travel gods smiled upon us (or maybe the Hilton staff just took pity on our rumpled faces), and we scored an early check-in. Praise be. After a power nap that felt like a full night’s sleep and a quick shower to wash off the airplane hours, we laced up our sneakers and set out to explore Munich by foot.
The city was alive with movement—trams gliding past, bikes zipping through cobblestone lanes, church bells chiming from somewhere in the distance. We were running on equal parts caffeine and curiosity, ready to dive headfirst into Bavaria’s capital.
Where We Stayed in Munich
For our first few days in Munich, we chose the Hilton Munich City, and it turned out to be the perfect home base for our family. Nestled in the Haidhausen artists’ district, the hotel is just 500 meters from the Deutsches Museum, which made popping in for a quick visit effortless.
Transit was a breeze thanks to the Rosenheimer Platz S-Bahn station right next door. From there, we had direct connections to Munich International Airport, Marienplatz, Munich Central Station, and even the Messe München fairgrounds—so we could zip around the city without ever needing a car.
But the location wasn’t the only thing that made the Hilton ideal. After a long flight and early arrival, staying in a familiar hotel chain felt like a cozy, safe landing spot while we acclimated to the city (and to jet lag). Our rooms were comfortable, the beds were welcoming, and the kids loved the sense of routine—even in the middle of a whirlwind European adventure.
In short, the Hilton gave us a soft landing in Munich: convenience, comfort, and the perfect springboard to start exploring the city on foot (and later, by bike!).
Pro Tip: If you’re visiting Munich with kids, choose a hotel near an S-Bahn (regional train) or U-Bahn (metro rail) station. It makes airport transfers, city sightseeing, and even impromptu snack runs effortless—plus, staying in a familiar chain can be a lifesaver after a long flight while everyone adjusts to jet lag.
Getting Around in Munich
Here’s the first rule of Munich: you do not need a car. Seriously. In fact, we wouldn’t recommend it. Parking in the city can be a nightmare—expensive, scarce, and often a test of your patience (and your kids’ tolerance for boredom while you circle the block). Instead, Munich practically invites you to explore on foot or via its spotless, efficient, and hilariously punctual public transportation system.
During our stay, we zipped around the city like locals on the U-Bahn and S-Bahn—everything is clean, safe, and clearly labeled in both German and English. Whether it was hopping off at Marienplatz to check out the Glockenspiel, strolling to the Deutsches Museum (just 500 meters from our hotel), or making a quick detour to grab pretzels from a street cart, public transit made it effortless. And if you’re ever in a rush—or just feeling fancy—you can always hail a cab without breaking the bank.
For excursions outside the city limits, the regional S-Bahn trains are your best friend. Case in point: when we visited the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site, we took a combination of S-Bahn and bus—all simple, stress-free, and perfectly timed. Even with three kids in tow, we never felt lost or overwhelmed.
And here’s a bonus option: biking around Munich. Renting a bike is a fantastic way to see the city, especially if you want to ride through the English Garden, an incredibly beautiful green oasis in the middle of the city—one of the largest urban parks in the world. We took a bike tour on one of our days in Munich, and the kids loved it—but more on that adventure later.
We didn’t even pick up our rental car until the morning we left Munich to head south to Bavaria, which gave us several days of worry-free city exploring without worrying about traffic, parking, or the dreaded “where did we leave the car?” conversations. The kids loved the freedom of walking between stops, and we loved the efficiency and sanity that Munich’s transit system provided.
In short, for city stays like Munich (and really, most bigger German cities), leave the car at home. Foot power + public transit + a bit of cab magic is all you need to see the city—and keep your family happy while doing it.
Our Munich Itinerary
Day 1 - Where Jet Lag Meets Bavarian Hospitality
After a long flight and forty minute train ride, we slowly shuffled into Munich. We were lucky enough to score an early check-in at the Hilton Munich City, and let me tell you, that felt like winning the family-travel lottery. The kids were rubbing their eyes, Max was yawning in slow motion, and Jake was already lobbying for snacks, so our first order of business: a quick fuel-up at the hotel café. Light pastries and coffee later, we stumbled up to our room for a two-hour power nap, a little insurance against cranky, over-tired kids on day one. Normally, when Bryan and I travel alone, naps are a foreign concept—we’d drop our bags and hit the streets immediately—but today, strategy won.
By mid-afternoon, recharged and showered, we were ready to dive into Munich’s culinary and cultural heartbeat. Our first stop: the legendary Hofbräuhaus, one of the most famous beer halls in the world. The main drinking hall seats over 1,300 patrons, and walking in is like stepping into a living postcard of Bavarian tradition. The kids’ eyes went wide as the sound of clinking steins and cheerful chatter filled the air.
We feasted like locals: warm pretzels with Obatzda (cheesy, tangy, and utterly addictive), gooey spaetzle, and a variety platter of sausages that had everyone sampling something new. Drinks were simple: lemonade for the kids and ice-cold Hofbräu beer, fresh off the tap, for the adults. The combination of hearty food, cheerful atmosphere, and just the right amount of jet-lag haze made it a magical introduction to Munich.
Afterwards, we wandered through the streets of Munich, letting the kids take in the sights, window shop, and scout pastry shops for the next day’s breakfast. There was an ice cream stop, of course—how could we resist? Max happily licked his cone without a care in the world, while Callan compared flavors like a little ice cream connoisseur.
Our final stop was a corner market, where we grabbed water bottles and a few snacks to carry back to the hotel. By the time we returned to our room, the kids were completely spent. Early bedtime was non-negotiable—especially since a family bike tour awaited us bright and early the next morning.
Day one of Munich was a perfect mix of rest, indulgence, and just a little wandering—the ideal soft landing into our German adventure.
Pro Tip: Don’t skip the Hofbräuhaus just because you have kids! During the day, it’s more “family fun” than “beer bash.” Go early, order a round of lemonades for the kids, and let them soak in the oom-pah-pah music and Bavarian cheer (while you enjoy a well-earned stein).
Day 2: Biking Through Munich — Pretzels, Pedals, and a Few Surprises Along the Way
We love doing bike tours on our first full day in a new city — it’s the perfect mix of sightseeing and strategy. We get a sense of the layout, learn a few fun facts, and spot all the places we want to circle back to later. Plus, the kids love it. You see way more than you ever could on foot (and cover ground a tour bus could only dream of).
Exploring Munich by bike turned out to be one of our favorite adventures in southern Germany — part history lesson, part scenic ride, and part comedy show (thanks entirely to our kids).
Our day began in Marienplatz, the vibrant heart of Munich. The city buzzed with morning energy, and Callan stood in awe watching the famous Glockenspiel. Every hour, its little figurines spin and twirl in a delightfully old-fashioned show. She was completely mesmerized — like she’d stumbled upon a real-life cuckoo clock performance.
From there, we pedaled through the Platzl, home of the legendary Hofbräuhaus, where we’d eaten the night before. Even though the beer wasn’t on our menu this time, the kids made a beeline for the giant pretzels. We all dipped ours in Obatzda, a creamy Bavarian cheese spread that instantly earned a permanent spot on our family’s “foods we’d fly back for” list. The cobblestone lanes, pastel buildings, and flower-boxed windows made us feel like we’d pedaled right into a fairy tale.
“I Found the Golden Ticket!”
Next, we glided through the Hofgarten, past the manicured paths and bubbling fountains, then on to Munich’s Residenz Courtyards. Our tour guide handed Jake a fake credit card and asked if he wanted to reenact the famous Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory scene where Charlie runs home to tell his parents he’s found the last golden ticket. Jake didn’t hesitate—he sprinted across the square yelling, “I found the golden ticket!”, arms in the air, grinning ear to ear. Everyone in our tour group (and a few bystanders) got a huge kick out of it!
Our tour guide then led us to Odeonsplatz, one of Munich’s most beautiful and historic squares, where Bryan soaked up centuries of Bavarian history and ornate architecture. I slipped into the quiet St. Kajetan Church for a quick moment to light a prayer candle for my dad — a small, peaceful pause in an otherwise lively day.
Then it was off to the English Garden, one of the largest city parks in the world — and without question, the kids’ favorite stop. Max was absolutely transfixed by the river surfers riding the Eisbach Wave like pros. He begged to jump in, but since swimsuits weren’t part of our daypack, he settled for cheering them on.
What none of us expected was stumbling across the park’s infamous nude sunbathing section. Don’t worry — most people were far enough away that we didn’t see much — but the idea of it was enough to send the kids into full meltdown mode. Their shocked little faces? Absolutely priceless. Let’s just say it made for some great dinner conversation later.
We stopped for lunch under the Chinese Tower, where everyone grabbed their favorites from the open-air beer garden: pretzels, sausages, potato salad, and Apfelschorle (sparkling apple juice). Sitting in the shade of the chestnut trees, listening to live Bavarian music, and laughing about the day’s surprises — it was one of those perfectly imperfect travel moments you wish you could bottle up forever.
Our final stretch took us along the Isar River, with photo stops at the golden Friedensengel (Angel of Peace) and the grand Maximilianeum, a building so regal it looked plucked straight from a royal history book. By the time we rolled back into Isartor, our legs were wobbly, our cheeks were sore from smiling, and our hearts were full.
Munich surprised us at every turn — with its charm, humor, history, and heart. It was the perfect city to explore together, one pedal stroke (and pretzel bite) at a time.
Day 3: Lessons, Landmarks, and a Little Laughter to End Our Munich Stay
Our third and final day in Munich was a roller coaster of emotions—a mix of somber reflection, peaceful nature, and a little lighthearted wandering through our favorite city spots. Anyone who’s read our other posts knows that we value travel that teaches as much as it entertains, and this day definitely did both.
The morning was set aside for something heavy but deeply meaningful: a visit to the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site. Given the kids’ ages and varying levels of understanding, we opted for a self-guided tour, so we could share information at a pace (and tone) that made sense for each of them—especially for Max, who was seven at the time.
The sky was gray and misty that morning, as if even the weather understood the weight of what we were about to see. We walked through the barracks where prisoners once slept, saw the showers and gas chambers, and stood in front of the crematoriums. The air felt still and sacred. It’s hard to describe what it feels like to stand in a place where over 40,000 innocent lives were lost—but “humbling,” “heartbreaking,” and “important” come close.
The kids, to their credit, were incredibly thoughtful. Callan asked quietly, “But why would someone want to hurt people just because they’re different?” Jake wondered, “Did anyone ever try to stop him?” And Max, after a long pause, said, “We should pray for them.” So we did. Together, we stood at one of the memorial altars, each of us taking a moment to offer up a prayer for the souls lost there. It was emotional, meaningful, and one of those rare parenting moments where you feel like maybe—just maybe—you’re doing something right.
After leaving Dachau, we all needed a little time to process, so we headed back into Munich for lunch and a lighter afternoon. Our next stop: Olympic Park, home of the 1972 Summer Olympics. The park itself is gorgeous—rolling green hills, reflective lakes, and futuristic architecture that still looks impressive decades later.
We took the elevator up the Olympic Tower, hoping to grab lunch at the revolving restaurant, Restaurant 181, which spins slowly above the city for panoramic views. Sadly, reservations were required (lesson learned!), so we just admired the view from the observation deck instead. Pro tip: if you want to dine in the clouds, book ahead!
We spent the rest of the afternoon meandering back through Munich, revisiting a few of our favorite stops from the bike tour. At Marienplatz, we caught one last performance of the Glockenspiel, and just when we thought the day couldn’t surprise us anymore, we stumbled across a “living statue”—a street performer painted head-to-toe in bronze who came to life just long enough to make us all jump (and laugh hysterically). Naturally, the kids demanded about a dozen photos with him.
We capped off the night with—you guessed it—ice cream. Because no day, no matter how emotional or educational, should end without something sweet. Then it was back to the hotel to pack up, rest our feet, and get ready for the next leg of our adventure—south into the heart of the Bavarian Alps.
Garmisch-Partenkirchen — Gateway to the German Alps (Days 4 - 7)
View of German Alps from Garmisch.
Pro Tip: Even if you’re visiting Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the summer, pack in layers! The weather in Garmisch can change unexpectedly - one minute you’re basking in sunshine, then next you’re pulling on a rain jacket and wondering if that’s snow on the peaks (spoiler: it probably is).
First Impressions of Garmisch-Partenkirchen
After a quick detour to charming Oberammergau (more on that gem later), we rolled into Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the late afternoon — and were instantly reminded why we’d fallen in love with this place nearly two decades ago. Bryan and I first visited Garmisch back in 2006, and ever since, we’d talked about bringing the kids one day. This time, we got to see it all again — but through their wide-eyed wonder, which made it even better.
As we drove into town, the view of the snow-capped Alps rising dramatically against the blue sky was exactly as we remembered — maybe even more spectacular. The kids, however, could not contain their excitement. Within minutes, our peaceful drive turned into a full-blown rapid-fire Q&A session from the back seat:
“What mountains are those?!” “Wait… is that actual snow? In June?”
“Are we going up there?” “Can we go snow tubing?”
“That’s a glacier? In Germany?” “Are there penguins?”
Their enthusiasm was so pure we didn’t even try to answer all of it — we just laughed and told them to keep their eyes peeled because the views were about to get even better.
Once we checked into our cozy alpine hotel, the kids threw open the balcony doors and stood there, slack-jawed, staring at the jagged peaks and lush green meadows dotted with wildflowers. The cool, crisp mountain air was a refreshing change after the city. Callan declared that “the air smells cleaner here,” Jake said it “felt like Christmas,” and Max just shouted, “I can see forever!”
As we walked through the quiet streets toward dinner, cowbells clinked softly in the distance and the scent of woodsmoke drifted through the air. There’s something about Garmisch that makes the world feel slower — calmer. You instantly want to take deep breaths, wear cozy sweaters, and stay a while.
Our first impression (or second, technically) was that Garmisch is every bit as magical as we remembered — and leaving would not be easy. The mountains pull you in, the alpine charm wraps around you, and suddenly, you start daydreaming about trading your regular life for one with daily mountain views and strudel breaks.
It’s safe to say, we were all smitten.
Where We Stayed in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
When we arrived in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, we decided to trade in our chain hotels for something a little more authentically Bavarian — and the Dorint Sporthotel checked every box (and then some). Picture an alpine chalet meets family resort: wooden balconies draped in flowers, mountain views so stunning they look Photoshopped, and just enough cuckoo-clock charm to make you grin every time you walked through the lobby.
Our two-bedroom alpine-style apartment was spacious and cozy, the kind of place that makes you want to curl up in a blanket with a mug of cocoa — even in June. From our terrace, we had sweeping views of the Bavarian Alps, which made morning coffee and evening wine taste about 100 times better.
Breakfast was an event in itself: a sprawling buffet of local cheeses, breads, fruits, sausages, and enough pastries to make you consider a preemptive hike. Their on-site restaurant, Bayernland, served hearty Bavarian specialties (think schnitzel, dumplings, and beer cheese dreams), while drinks could be enjoyed fireside in the bar or out in the beer garden under the alpine sky.
And can we talk about the spa? Saunas, steam baths, yoga, massages, and even beauty treatments — it was basically a wellness wonderland tucked beneath the Zugspitze. Bryan and I may or may not have debated moving in permanently.
Meanwhile, the kids were living their best mountain lives in the hotel’s outdoor playground, which had a trampoline, a life-size chess set, and enough space for them to burn off all the strudel energy. They were so happy playing outside that they didn’t even flinch when it started to drizzle — a parenting win if there ever was one.
Located at the foot of Germany’s highest peak, the Dorint was the perfect base for our upcoming adventure to the Zugspitze. Plus, it was ideally positioned between Salzburg and Innsbruck, both easy day trips, time permitting.
In short: if you’re looking for Bavarian charm, mountain magic, and a hotel that keeps both kids and adults smiling, the Dorint Sporthotel is the place to hang your hat (or hiking boots).
Our Garmisch Itinerary
Day 4: Painted Houses, Mountain Thrills, and a Scenic Detour to Oberammergau
After picking up our rental car from Sixt in Munich (and a brief comedy of errors figuring out how to switch the GPS from German to English), we hit the open road toward Garmisch-Partenkirchen, with a planned detour in the storybook village of Oberammergau.
Our first stop: Kolbensattel Alpine Park, home to one of the coolest alpine coasters in Bavaria. The chairlift ride to the top was an adventure in itself—slowly gliding above meadows dotted with wildflowers, cows wearing bells that actually clang, and the kind of fresh mountain air that makes you want to fill your lungs and never exhale. But what we didn’t expect was what waited at the top.
The views of the Kolben Mountains were absolutely breathtaking—rolling emerald slopes framed by snow-capped peaks so picture-perfect they looked fake. An adorable alpine chalet greeted us at the summit, the Alpengasthof Paletti, where we grabbed snacks and drinks while the kids made a beeline for the mountaintop playground. There was a zipline, balance ropes, and the kind of slides that make you wish you were ten again. We practically had to peel them off the zipline when it was time to head down.
And what a ride down it was. The Alpine Coaster stretched a whopping 2,600 meters and hit speeds of up to 40 mph, with 70 curves, 12 jumps, and 7 waves—basically, a mountain roller coaster powered by pure gravity and unfiltered joy. The kids were grinning from ear to ear (as were the adults). After a few days packed with history and museums in Munich, this was exactly the kind of fun, high-energy day they needed.
Once we got our adrenaline fix, we pressed on to the charming town of Oberammergau—famous for its Passion Play (performed once every ten years) and its Lüftlmalerei—the hand-painted frescoes that adorn nearly every building. Imagine entire fairy tales splashed across the walls of homes and shops—Hansel and Gretel, Little Red Riding Hood, even biblical scenes—all done in bright, storybook colors.
We stopped for lunch at Hotel Alte Post, a cozy outdoor restaurant overlooking the town square, shaded by umbrellas and surrounded by mountain views. The food? Absolutely delicious. Bryan went for a hearty plate of schnitzel with potato salad, I had the currywurst and pommes (fries), and the kids devoured bowls of käsespätzle (the cheesiest of cheesy noodles). Fueled and happy, we wandered the cobblestone streets, popping into woodcarving shops and souvenir stores—because you really can’t leave Bavaria without at least considering a cuckoo clock.
Once our bellies and shopping bags were full, we loaded back into the car and drove the final stretch to our base for the next few days: Garmisch-Partenkirchen. After checking in, we took a stroll around the property—an alpine dream of flower boxes, crisp air, and postcard-worthy mountain views. Later, we headed into town for a light dinner (and maybe a shared slice of apple strudel or two) before letting the kids burn off their last burst of energy at the hotel playground.
We called it an early night—because tomorrow’s plan? A full day of castle hunting.
Day 5: Castles, Kings, and an Unexpected Dash to Austria
Today was castle day—and not just any castles, but King Ludwig II’s legendary Bavarian beauties: Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau. Standing before them, you feel as though you’ve crossed the threshold between history and fairy tale.
We started at Hohenschwangau, Ludwig’s sunny-yellow childhood home, where little Ludwig spent his youth daydreaming, reading stories, and cultivating the dramatic flair that would one day lead him to build… well… Neuschwanstein. This castle is all knights, legends, and sweeping alpine views—the perfect backdrop for a future drama-loving king.
Then it was time for the star of the show: Neuschwanstein, the castle Ludwig built as his personal fantasy escape—a medieval dream-world constructed in the 19th century, complete with soaring turrets, swan motifs, and a throne room with no actual throne (he never finished it!).
To reach it, we hiked the 1.5 km trail up the mountain—a beautiful, peaceful nature walk filled with towering pines, fresh alpine air, and the kids happily burning off energy while pretending to be dragons, knights, or—depending on the child—mountain goats.
After touring both castles, we grabbed lunch in the sweet little village of Hohenschwangau, where the café tables spill out onto flower-lined terraces. The kids inhaled their brats and fries, while Bryan and I opted for schnitzel (again… zero regrets). The quote of the day came from Max, who squinted at Neuschwanstein and asked, “Why did the king copy Cinderella’s castle? If he was so rich, couldn’t he have built any castle he wanted?” We explained, chuckling, that it was actually the other way around—Walt Disney borrowed from Ludwig, and Neuschwanstein was the castle he wanted (and designed). Minds were blown.
With the whole afternoon ahead of us, we did what any responsible, thoughtful travel planners would do: we made an impulsive international detour. Innsbruck? Only 1.5 hours away? Why not hop over to Austria for the afternoon?
So off we went—through rolling green hills, sleepy villages, and that hypnotizing alpine scenery that makes you want to pull over every five minutes for “just one more picture.”
Since the stop was totally unplanned, we did a self-guided tour of Innsbruck, taking in the highlights of the charming old town:
The Golden Roof – a balcony covered in over 2,600 fire-gilded copper tiles, built for Emperor Maximilian I so he could watch festivals and tournaments in style. Essentially, the royal version of having really shiny box seats. Jake, completely deadpan, took one look at the roof and said, “It looks like someone wrapped it in gold tinfoil.” I’m sure Emperor Maximilian, who commissioned the roof to show off his imperial wealth, was rolling in his grave at that one.
Anna’s Column – a stunning pink marble monument marking the liberation of the city from Bavarian troops in 1703.
By the evening Innsbruck had won us over—clean, colorful, mountain-framed, and impossibly charming. We enjoyed a traditional Austrian dinner at Restaurant Sailer, located on the Rathausplatz directly across the square from the Spitalkirche. The kids chased hungry pigeons between bites while Byan and I took in the pink glow of the mountains behind the rooftops. Then we drove back to Garmisch with full bellies, sleepy kids, and the satisfying feeling of having squeezed every last drop of magic out of the day.
Castles? ✔️
Hikes? ✔️
Countryside views? ✔️
An unplanned trip to Austria? ✔️
A perfect Day 5. ✔️
Day 6: Salt Mines, Singing Nuns, and a Boombox-Fueled Bike Ride Through Austria
This was the day we actually planned to cross into Austria—Salzburg, specifically. But first? We kicked things off underground. Literally.
Stop 1: The Berchtesgaden Salt Mine — a.k.a. The Coolest Classroom on Earth
We arrived at the Berchtesgaden Salt Mine not entirely sure what to expect. A museum? A tour? A few rocks and a lecture? Nope. This was a full-blown subterranean adventure. We hopped onto a tiny miner’s train and zipped deep into the mine—over 650 meters into the Earth—zooming through narrow tunnels like we were heading into a secret lair. We learned about drilling, brine extraction, evaporation… all the salty science. Then came the best parts:
Sliding down giant wooden miner slides into illuminated grottos (the kids declared this “WAY better than the school slide”).
Crossing the magical underground Mirror Lake on a raft while lights danced across the water like something straight out of a fantasy film.
We left the mine genuinely impressed—and, per Jake, “salty but in a good way.” Honestly? This ended up being one of the most unexpectedly memorable things we did the entire trip.
Stop 2: Salzburg — “The Hills Are Alive…” and So Are Our Quads
Next up: Salzburg, where we had booked Fräulein Maria’s Sound of Music Bike Tour—because if you’re going to swirl through the Alps, you might as well do it with musical theater energy. Our guide—part historian, part comedian, part Julie Andrews superfan—led us through the city’s iconic filming locations: Mirabell Gardens, where Maria and her wards perform the “Do-Re-Mi” scene; Kapitelplatz, public square Maria walks through while singing “I Have Confidence”; The Horse Pond, featured during the “My Favorite Things” sequence; Nonnberg Abbey, home of the real-life (and movie) singing nuns; Villa Trapp, the actual family home; Leopoldskron Palace, which doubled as the von Trapp lakeside backyard; and Residenzplatz, where Maria belts out verses in the bike-riding sequence.
Then, because Salzburg knows its audience, our guide pulled a BOOMBOX from her bike basket and blasted “The Hills Are Alive” as we pedaled through the countryside. It was camp. It was glorious. It was everything.
The grand finale? We rolled into a peaceful little park where the original “16 Going on 17 “ gazebo now lives. Callan and her brothers did their best rendition of Rolf and Liesl’s dance (with dramatically exaggerated twirls). And Bryan and I reenacted the Captain and Maria’s “Something Good,” complete with overly serious faces and faux spotlights, which earned a few eye rolls and “ewws” from the kids.
By the time the four-hour bike tour wrapped, we were sweaty, exhilarated, and completely spent. The kind of tired only Salzburg and subterranean salt slides can deliver. Dinner plans? We had none. And that’s how we ended up cruising through the McDonald’s drive-thru like the classy international tourists we are—laughing all the way back to Garmisch with fries in our laps.
A long day. A magical day. We slept well.
Day 7: The Cows of Oberau & Snow Day on Zugspitze
If there was one day our kids had been counting down to since we left the U.S., it was this one: the day we were finally going to play in the snow… in June. But first, like all great family adventures, it started with an unexpected detour.
As we wound our way toward the mountains, the kids suddenly shrieked, “COWS! COWS! PULL OVER!” Given their enthusiasm (and volume), you’d think they’d just spotted Taylor Swift, not a herd of Bavarian cows. But off to the shoulder we went.
These Oberau cows, our cows now, were the sweetest, gentlest creatures you’ll ever meet. They sauntered right up to us like we were old friends, and when they realized we came bearing handfuls of grass, we were officially promoted to Favorite Tourists of the Day. And the bells—oh, the bells. That soft, rhythmic cling-a-ling echoing through the valley? Absolutely hypnotic. I could’ve stayed there for hours. The kids would have, too. In fact, we practically had to drag them back to the car with the solemn promise: “Yes, we’ll stop again on the way down.” Because parenting.
At last, we arrived at the cable car station for Zugspitze, the tallest peak in all of Germany—standing proud at 2,962 meters (9,718 feet). The ride up felt like ascending into a postcard. Every direction you turned: Germany stretching behind us, Austria glowing beneath us, Switzerland and Italy peeking out on the horizon. All four countries from one mountaintop—it was like Geography Class, but way less boring.
But the real magic happened when we hopped onto a second gondola and descended onto the glacier. Cue the squeals. Suddenly, it was winter again. The kids launched themselves into full holiday mode: snowman building (ours looked… interpretive, let’s call it that), snowball fights (mostly friendly—Jake declared himself “Snowball Fight Champion”), and sledding (Bryan may have hooted louder than the kids).
At one point, Max held out his hands to the sky and proclaimed, “BEST DAY OF SUMMER!” Honestly? Fair.
When our fingers officially stopped functioning from the cold, we ducked into a cozy alpine lodge for steaming mugs of hot chocolate. The kids drank theirs topped with whipped cream mustaches, and Bryan and I thawed out while basking in the pure joy of watching our children live their best high-altitude lives.
True to our word, we pulled over again at the Oberau pasture on the way down. The cows welcomed us back like we’d been gone for days instead of hours. Max insisted on taking “just one more picture” with his favorite cow, whom he named Moo-tella (rhymes with Nutella).
We wrapped up the perfect day back at our Alpine home base, where we had the bittersweet task of packing up for the next chapter of our German adventure: the stunning Eifel region. Snow in summer, cow cuddles, hot chocolate whiskers, 360° Alpine views—Day 7 was a dream from start to finish.
Malberg — Grand Finale with Family & Friends (Days 8-12)
Malberg, Germany
Head’s Up: The second half of our adventure is personal and may trigger nostalgia, happy tears, and major heartstring tugging. Proceed only if you’re okay with warm fuzzies.
The Part Where Things Get Personal
Before we dive into “first impressions,” I have to give you a little heads-up: the final five days of this adventure come with with a shift in focus from the land of trains, castles, and snow-covered Alps into something a bit more personal.
I was reunited with family and friends I hadn’t hugged in over ten years—yes, a full decade—and those moments were the kind that stay with you long after the suitcases are unpacked.
But don’t worry, I’m not switching this into a tear-soaked diary entry. I’ll still sprinkle in highlights and helpful tips from the two bigger cities (Trier and Cologne) we explored with our loved ones, so you’ll get a cozy mix of history, culture, food, and family traditions—just seasoned with a dash of heart. I’ll take you behind the scenes of the trip… the part where the memories got a little softer, the laughs got a little louder, and the travel became something more than just a destination.
First Impressions—Through the Kids’ Eyes
Malberg, Germany, seen through the eyes of Callan (12), Jake, and Max (7), was both fascinating and baffling.
Callan immediately noticed the little things that made the town unique—the narrow streets with no sidewalks, the small, functional houses, and how the architecture seemed to whisper stories of generations past. She pointed out tiny details, like the way shutters were painted, the cobblestones that wobbled under her sneakers, and the old-world charm in every corner.
Jake was more practical. He couldn’t wrap his head around the backyard of our family home being about the size of his bedroom back in the States. There was no lawn—just a small round table, a few potted plants, and space barely enough for a couple of chairs. “Where would you play football or backyard games?” he asked, eyes wide, scanning the compact space.
Max’s first question was blunt: “Where are all the kids?” Indeed, most of Malberg’s young people had moved to bigger cities in search of jobs, leaving a town largely populated by older residents. It was a reality check for him, and a window into how life had shifted over the years.
When we told the kids that we were going to walk around town, they groaned, thinking it would be a long, exhausting trek—little did they realize that Malberg was tiny. A full stroll around the village took just 30 to 45 minutes.
Still, the town was full of wonders for them—and for me. I led them to the Kyll River, where I had spent hours splashing in the water and skipping rocks as a child. We visited the family garden plots on the side of town, each family with its own small section for vegetables and flowers. Then we went to the cherry tree where we used to pick cherries in the summer, bringing them back to my Oma’s kitchen to watch her make cakes and jellies. The playground, where I had whiled away entire afternoons as a child (there weren’t many other kids in town even back then), sparked excitement for nostalgia—and a little amazement for the kids.
Jake lit up when we reached the town church, St. Quirinus—the very same place he had been baptized 10 years earlier. And then came a sound that stopped them in their tracks - the church bells, ringing every hour and half-hour. I explained how my Oma had taught me to listen carefully to the bells as a child: a steady ring to mark the hour, a different pattern to announce a wedding, a toll for a death, or a call to a special town event. The kids were mesmerized, experiencing a world of sound and tradition unlike anything they had known.
By the end of this “first impressions” tour, it was clear: Malberg might have been small, but it was overflowing with stories, history, and childhood memories that now belonged to another generation.
Where We Stayed in The Eifel: Family Edition
The Eifel region of Germany feels like my second home—and honestly, at this point, it might as well come with its own welcome mat that says Heidi’s Back Again! I’ve been coming here since I was little, well over a dozen times, and I can’t imagine staying anywhere other than with family. Hotels are great, but nothing beats a stay where someone is insisting you take seconds… and thirds.
Growing up, we always stayed at my Oma’s house. It was the center of everything—meals, memories, and the occasional scolding for eating all the Nutella. After she passed nearly two decades ago, our “home base” shifted literally across the street to my Tante Gudrun’s house, which feels wonderfully familiar in all the best ways.
Her home, like most in these tiny Eifel villages, is small but perfectly functional—German engineering at its finest. Picture this: a kitchen the size of a New York City closet with seating for two, a small living room that moonlights as the dining room with seating for six (if everyone inhales before sitting), a washroom, three bedrooms, and one full bath. That’s it. No sprawling floor plans, no walk-in pantries, no “bonus rooms.”
And you know what? It’s perfect. Cozy, close, and full of that wonderfully old-world charm that forces togetherness—the good kind. It’s the kind of place where you spend less time hiding in your room and more time talking, laughing, and sharing stories you’ve all heard a hundred times but pretend are new because you love hearing them again.
Because that’s what home is. Even when it’s not technically yours.
Our Eifel Region Itinerary
Day 8: Arrival in Malberg
The seven hour car ride from Garmisch to Malberg was a test of patience, sibling tolerance, and how many times one can hear “How much further?” before losing your mind. Spoiler: we could not get to Malberg fast enough.
When we finally rolled into Malberg, it was worth every minute of whining. Population: a cozy 500-ish, which means everyone basically knows everyone—and we were immediately embraced by my aunt, with whom we stayed, and my mother, who had arrived a week earlier. Before heading inside, the kids needed to stretch their legs and get some fresh air after the long drive, so we took an introductory walk around the village. The last time we’d been here was in 2006, when Callan was two, Jake was a newborn, and Max… not even born yet. Needless to say, it felt like the first time for all of them.
After exploring the town a bit and getting their initial impressions, we headed back to my aunt’s house for dinner. And oh… my aunt’s cooking did not disappoint: Markklößchen Suppe, Rinderbraten with perfectly roasted potatoes, and my ultimate comfort-food hero, tangy red cabbage. Callan, between bites, managed a full-mouth compliment: “Mom, this cabbage is… actually really good.” And then . . . dessert. My aunt served Kalter Hund, a no-bake cake made by layering butter biscuits, chocolate glaze, and cream. Pure bliss. Everyone dug in, savoring the chocolatey goodness, and for a few moments, nothing else mattered but family, laughter, and this divine treat.
We spent the evening catching up with family and reminiscing, while simultaneously playing Skip-Bo (a family favorite) to keep the small humans engaged. My mother and aunt shared old tales of summers past, family traditions, and the little quirks of Malberg that only long-time residents could know. The kids listened, asked questions, and occasionally chimed in with their own observations, connecting the dots between their first impressions and the memories I shared from my childhood.
The night ended with full bellies and hearts and gratitude for this soft place to land after a long drive. Malberg may have been tiny, but it overflowed with warmth, history, and the kind of family love that makes a place feel timeless. Before heading to bed, we made plans for the next day: a short trip to Trier for history, culture, and shopping—a little city adventure to balance our quiet village stay.
Pro tip: If you’re planning a family adventure through the Eifel region of Germany, consider basing yourself in one of the larger towns—Bitburg, Trier, or one of the ridiculously charming villages sprinkled along the Middle Rhine. You’ll find way more choices for sleeping, snacking, exploring, and keeping everyone fed before they get hangry.
Day Nine: Roman Ruins, Fountain Frolics, and Nutella Dreams in Trier
Day nine brought us to Trier, Germany’s oldest city and, for a brief moment in history, the center of the Roman Empire. Talk about starting your morning with some serious street cred.
Our first stop was the Porta Nigra, a massive second-century Roman gate that once guarded the city entrance. The kids marveled at the ancient stones—Jake impersonating Roman soldiers and challenging Max to duel—while Callan documented every angle like a tiny historian, making her father proud. Nearby, we wandered through the ruins of the Imperial Baths, which had once been one of the grandest bathing complexes north of the Alps. I tried to picture Romans lounging there in togas while the kids poked around, exploring the underground tunnels for hidden treasures.
Next, we strolled along the Electoral Palace, stepping into the serene palace gardens. Fountains danced, sculptures peeked through the flowerbeds, and colorful blooms softened the contrast against Trier’s ancient stones. It was peaceful, beautiful, and Instagram-worthy—but we had other priorities: food.
Lunch was a relaxed, sun-soaked affair at Café Zeitsprung, right across from the palace gardens. While we sipped and nibbled, the kids had a full-on adventure in the playground and the “dancing fountain,” which shot water up intermittently like a perfectly timed symphony. They tried to dodge getting wet… but let’s be real, they were secretly loving it.
After lunch, we switched gears and embraced a more spiritual side of Trier. We toured the Trier Cathedral, Germany’s oldest cathedral and home to the Holy Tunic of Christ—the robe Jesus wore during the crucifixion. In the quiet, reverent space, we paused to light a memory candle for my father and say a short prayer. The kids were respectful, but I could tell Callan was fascinated by the layers of history around her, and Max whispered, “This place is seriously old.”
The rest of the afternoon was pure family wanderlust. We wandered through the town square, dipping in and out of charming gift shops, searching for souvenirs, and tasting every ice cream flavor that promised Nutella. (Spoiler: we did not leave disappointed.)
By the end of the day, Trier had delivered history, fun, beauty, and chocolatey bliss in equal measure—a perfect mix of education, adventure, and indulgence for everyone.
Day 10: Chocolate, Cathedrals, and Childhood Pen Pals in Cologne
We woke up early and hit the road for Cologne—a lively, colorful, culture-packed city about two hours from Malberg. Cologne is one of Germany’s biggest cities, famous for its bold art scene, charming Old Town, the Rhine River, and, of course, the massive Gothic masterpiece that dominates the skyline like it owns the place. (Because honestly, it does.)
But the real reason we were headed north? A long-overdue reunion with my childhood pen pal, Steffi. Yes—a real, old-school, handwritten-letters pen pal. Not a “follow me on Instagram” friend. Not a “we occasionally like each other’s posts” acquaintance. We were introduced by my cousin when I was fourteen, and we’ve been writing letters—and later emails, because adulthood—ever since. Every trip to Germany includes a Steffi meetup. It’s tradition.
Together, we made our way to the Cologne Cathedral, which pulls in over 20,000 visitors a day and somehow still feels jaw-dropping every single time. The cathedral’s twin spires shoot 515 feet into the sky, looking like they’re trying to poke the clouds. Inside, it’s all soaring vaults, hushed echoes, stained glass that glows like jewel boxes, and enough history to make even the kids stop and stare for a minute before asking, “Wait… how old is this again?” (Answer: older than their concept of time.)
Next up: the Lindt Chocolate Museum, also known as the happiest place in Cologne. We learned how chocolate is made, tried samples (for “educational purposes,” of course), and watched liquid chocolate flow like a dream we all suddenly shared. In the “Chocolateria” the kids got to create their own chocolate bars, choosing from more than 40 different toppings. Tough life choices, and precisely zero regrets.
Afterward, we took a slow stroll along the Rhine River boardwalk, catching up with Steffi in that effortless way you do with someone who’s known you through braces, college, marriage, kids, and questionable hairstyles.
Then it was off to her home in Niederkassel for a cozy afternoon cookout with her family. The kids practically levitated when they saw an actual backyard—Grass! Space! A swing set! The boys played outdoors the whole time while Callan hung out with Steffi’s two daughters (the “cool” older girls). Meanwhile, the grown-ups grilled, talked, laughed, and pretended not to notice the chocolate-fueled chaos happening around us.
By evening, our hearts were full, our kids were exhausted, and our car smelled vaguely like BBQ and chocolate—basically the scent of a perfect day. We drove back to Malberg feeling blessed, content, and grateful for friendships that span continents and decades.
Day 11: Secret Chocolate Missions & Garden-Party Magic
Day eleven came with a secret agenda: Operation Father’s Day Surprise. This required some covert planning—no easy task when traveling with kids who treat secrets like live grenades. With limited suitcase space and a firm refusal to lug home souvenirs that could shatter, we went with the safest, most universally beloved category: edible gifts.
Lucky for us, our trip to the Lindt Chocolate Museum in Cologne the day before had positioned us perfectly. We picked out an assortment of Bryan’s favorite chocolates—including one extremely convincing chocolate beer bottle. It was so realistic that I half expected it to start fizzing. A delicious reminder that there are many ways to consume something that looks like beer. Bryan devoured it by sundown. Naturally.
We started the morning with a simple Father's Day breakfast at home before heading to Mass at St. Quirinus, the village church that holds a piece of our family history. It felt surprisingly emotional to sit in that pew again—like stepping back into childhood. They even still had the same baptismal font where Jake was baptized ten years ago. My sentimental mom-heart just about melted. Did Bryan and the kids understand a single word of the service? Absolutely not. But they smiled, nodded, and sat politely through all the German hymns, earning themselves bonus heavenly points for effort.
After church, we wandered to the playground and then to the soccer field on the edge of Malberg. The kids tossed the football, burned off their extra wiggles, and reminded us (yet again) that sibling harmony is more of a mythical creature than a family reality.
Later in the afternoon, we headed to the nearby town of Mohrweiler for a garden party at the home of our dear friend Hanz—a retired chef, philanthropist, and master gardener whose backyard puts most botanical gardens to shame. Think: acres of greenery, fountains, statues, tucked-away log cabins built for entertaining, and quiet corners perfect for sneaking in a moment of serenity (well… in theory). The kids were absolutely obsessed and requested photos of every statue, fountain, leaf, and decorative rock. Better than a playground, hands down.
Dinner was delicious, the company warm and hilarious, and the laughs flowed as easily as the homemade sangria. And then, as tradition demands, Hanz made his way to the jukebox, punched in the number, and out came “Heidi,” the fun, funky theme song from the classic Heidi movie. The rule is simple: Hanz stands → I stand → we dance. And just like always, everyone eventually joined in, turning the garden into a lively, joy-filled German dance scene straight out of a feel-good film.
We drove back to Malberg that night full—full of food, full of laughter, and full of that warm, nostalgic glow that only a perfect summer evening with old friends can give you.
Day 12: The Grand Finale (a.k.a. The Soft Landing Before Reality Hits)
Our last day in Germany was basically the vacation equivalent of a cozy sweater: warm, comforting, and absolutely zero stress. We spent the morning with extended family in Malberg—because in this tiny village, everyone is somehow related and will absolutely feed you if you stand still long enough.
We took one last lazy loop around the town’s perimeter, the kids squeezed in one final playground romp, and we tossed a few skipping stones into the Kyll River like we were filming the dramatic closing scene of our own travel documentary. Each stone came with a wish to return soon… preferably before another ten years pass.
Per family tradition, we made our way to the neighboring town of Kyllburg for dinner at Pizzeria Bella Italia—the place we always go the night before we fly home. It’s wonderfully low-key, perched above the Kyll River with views that make even the kids pause mid-fidget. The owners are Italian, the vibe is cozy, and the pizza? Truly, spectacularly, worth-dreaming-about amazing.
It was our chillest day of the whole trip, but also the most heart-tuggy. There’s something magical about being in Malberg—three generations under one roof, watching our kids see where they come from through both my eyes and their grandmother’s. It’s the kind of thing you can’t buy, can’t stage, and definitely can’t take for granted.
I don’t know when we’ll be back… but I’m holding tight to this one.
Happy, full, overflowing heart.
📅 Our 12-Day Germany Itinerary Summary
✨ Munich| Garmisch-Partenkirchen | Malberg
Day 1: ✈️ Arrive Munich • Dinner @ Hofbräuhaus
Day 2: 🚲 Marienplatz • Mike’s Bike Tour • Lunch @ Chinese Tower
Day 3: 🕯️ Dachau Memorial Site • Olympic Park • Olympic Tower
Day 4: 🛷 Kolbensattel Alpine Park • Oberammergau • Lunch @ Hotel Alte Post • Arrive Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Day 5: 🏰 Neuschwanstein & Hohenschwangau castles • Innsbruck, Austria • Dinner @ Restaurant Sailer
Day 6: 🇦🇹 Berchtesgaden Salt Mine • Fräulein Maria’s Sound of Music Bike Tour • Dinner @ McDonald’s 🍔
Day 7: 🏔️ Oberau Cows • Zugspitze • Dinner @ Restaurant Bayernland
Day 8: 🏡 Arrive Malberg • Walking Tour of Malberg • Dinner @ Tante Gudrun’s
Day 9: 🏛️ Trier: Porta Nigra • Imperial Baths • Electoral Palace & Gardens • Lunch @ Café Zeitsprung • Cathedral
Day 10: ⛪ Cologne: Cathedral • Lindt Chocolate Factory • Dinner @ Steffi’s
Day 11: 🔥 Father’s Day • Mass @ St. Quirinus • Playground • Dinner @ Hanz’s
Day 12: 🍕 Visit with Relatives • Go for long walk • Playground • Dinner @ Pizzeria Bella Italia
Day 13: ✈️ Journey home
Alternate Adventures: Your “Family-Free” Swap-Ins
If you’re planning a trip to the Rhine or Mosel River Valley and want to follow my itinerary minus the days I spent visiting with family, welcome to your mix-and-match menu of magical river towns, castles, cafés, and cable cars. Swap any of these into the open spaces on your schedule and you’ll have a gorgeously well-rounded trip (with far fewer cousins offering you cake).
Spend two to four days exploring the Middle Rhine, take a ferry between villages, or hop over to the Mosel — both valleys are packed with storybook charm. Here are my favorite stops, each with its own vibe and a few delightful quirks:
Rüdesheim:
Home of the famous Drosselgasse — adorable but also the busiest and mistiest. If you don’t like crowds, keep it brief. If you love energy, music drifting through narrow lanes, and wine taverns squeezed into every corner, linger a while.
Bacharach
Half-timbered houses that look hand-painted. And hovering dramatically above town is Wernerkapelle, an unfinished 13th-century Gothic chapel that’s haunting, gorgeous, and absolutely worth the climb for the views alone.
St. Goar
This village is home to the world’s largest free-hanging cuckoo clock, because of course it is. Don’t miss Burg Rheinfels, one of the mightiest castle ruins on the Rhine. We always eat at the historic Rheinfels Hotel — yes, it’s up a hill, and yes, the sweeping Rhine scenery from the terrace makes every step worth it.
Boppard
Boppard is a bit larger, with more dining and hotel options. We often stay at the riverfront Rheinvue Hotel, where morning coffee meets perfect river views. Take the cable car up to the Vierseenblick (Four Lakes View) lookout point, where the twist of the Rhine creates the illusion of four shimmering lakes. Pure magic.
Koblenz
Koblenz is the dramatic point where the Mosel and the Rhine Rivers meet, marked by the iconic Deutsches Eck — a grand riverside plaza crowned by a colossal equestrian statue of Emperor Wilhelm I. It’s the perfect jumping-off spot for exploring the Mosel side, which is home to some of Germany’s most spectacular sights:
Burg Eltz
This fairytale castle is hidden deep in the forest, wonderfully untouched and completely enchanting. Owned and operated by the Eltz family for over 850 years. One of my all-time favorites. LOVE!!
Cochem
A postcard-perfect town (think cobblestone lanes and half-timbered houses) topped by the stunning Reichsburg Castle, with winding alleys, riverfront cafés, and views that look too good to be real. Do a wine-tasting at Alte Gutsschanke and tell them Heidi sent you!
Bernkastel-Kues
A charming Mosel gem where vineyards spill down the hillsides and the ruins of Landshut Castle keep watch from above. Storybook-perfect in every direction. Remember that shops close here at 5 pm; arrive early if you’re hunting for souvenirs.
Book a KD Ferry Tour of the Middle Rhine
If you're short on time but determined to squeeze every drop of charm out of the Rhine River Valley, hop aboard a KD Ferry. Think of it as the Rhine’s very own hop-on-hop-off chariot: glide past castles, wave at vineyards, then casually step off at any village that catches your eye. When you’re ready for the next adventure, just hop on the next ferry like the river-savvy traveler you are.
When we did it, we trained from Boppard to Bingen, boarded the northbound ferry, and spent the day hopping on and off at every storybook village until we drifted right back to Boppard—our home base and reward at the end of the day.
Sure, you could book a round-trip ferry… but be warned: that’s several extra hours of floating backwards. Charming? Yes. Efficient? Not so much. Perfect if you love a leisurely cruise; less ideal if you’re on a mission.
So there you have it: half a dozen different ways to swap out my family days and build your own unforgettable adventure along the Rhine and Mosel River Valleys — castles, villages, cable cars, wine, and views for days. Pick your favorites, mix and match, and make the itinerary your own.
Pro Tip: The hop-on, hop-off KD ferry is delightfully low-maintenance—you can book your tickets ahead of time or just stroll up to the counter the day of. But heads up: if you want a guided tour, that does require advance booking.
Tips for Families Traveling to Germany With Tweens (and a 7-year-old)
Traveling through Germany with tweens and one enthusiastic 7-year-old is basically a beautiful mix of: “Wow, look at that castle!” and “I’m hungry again.” Here are a few survival-tested tips from our own family adventures:
1. Embrace the Unplanned Animal Encounters
German landscapes are full of cows, sheep, and other adorable distractions. If your kids are anything like mine, they will spot a field of cows from approximately six miles away and beg you to stop. When our kids demanded an emergency cow-feeding break in Oberau, we pulled over immediately, and honestly… the cows were friendlier than some tour guides. Lean in. These detours become the highlight reel.
2. Stay in a Town That Has… Stuff
In the Eifel region, we learned that staying in a tiny village like Malberg is great for peace, quiet, and connecting with family—but maybe not ideal when your tweens want excitement, snacks, or literally anything that isn’t goats. For a smoother trip (and fewer “I’m boooored” moments), base yourself in one of the charming villages along the Mosel or Rhine Rivers. They’ve got what families actually need: more dining options, more places to stay, and more things to do with high-energy kids. Your future self will thank you.
3. Prepare for Castle Staircases (and Castle Attitudes)
Neuschwanstein, Hohenschwangau, Eltz, Marksburg… Germany takes its castle game very seriously. Kids will love the adventure—but those staircases? They are plentiful. And ancient. And steep. Pack comfy shoes, bring water, and prepare for at least one dramatic statement from a tween along the lines of: “Why don’t these castles have elevators?”
4. Keep the Days Structured… But Not Too Structured
German trains run on time. Your family? Probably not. Build in lots of wiggle room for church stops (like our sweet morning at St. Quirinus), random bakery finds, and moments when the kids suddenly decide they must a dozen photos of wild, slightly unhinged billy goats.
5. Bring Cash—Kids Notice Ice Cream FAST
Germany is getting more credit card-friendly, but some of the cutest little spots (especially in smaller towns) still run on cash. Nothing tests a parent’s nerve like explaining to a disappointed 7-year-old that they cannot get an ice cream because you only have Apple Pay.
6. Say Yes to the Snacks.
German bakeries are basically fuel stations for traveling families. A pretzel can solve 90% of mood swings. Your tweens might not remember the exact year the Romans founded Trier, but they will remember the pretzel with the flaky salt and Obatzda cheese dip.
7. Expect a Daily Dose of “I Don’t Understand Anything”
Between menus, museum plaques, and church services, your kids may not follow every word—but that’s part of the adventure. When we went to a Sunday mass, none of them understood the German service at all… but they still talked about the familiar rhythm, the bells, and the warm, resinous smell of incense.
8. Let Them Experience the Magic, Not Just the Itinerary
Germany has a way of surprising you: a castle tucked into the hills, a ferry drifting through morning mist, a field full of curious cows… If you slow down enough to let the kids explore, wander, poke around, and get a little muddy—they’ll come home remembering more than the ticket stubs.
Bonus Tip: Make sure each kid has at least one euro coin stashed in their pocket at all times. Germany’s public restrooms usually charge a euro, and you’ll be grateful to have coinage on hand in the event of a bathroom emergency.
Germany Family Favorites
“ The Munich bike tour completely won me over. Our guide knew everything—German history, wild legends, and the kinds of stories that make you stop pedaling just to soak it in. One of the most memorable spots was Viscardigasse, a narrow alley paved with golden cobblestones. During the Nazi era, brave Munich locals quietly used this back route to avoid passing the Feldherrnhalle—where they were expected to stop and give the Nazi salute. Instead of complying, they silently slipped through this alley in their own act of resistance.
Standing there, in the footsteps of everyday heroes who defied the Reich in the only way they safely could, left me with a sense of awe and deep respect. It felt like an honor just to stand where they once walked.“
- Bryan
“ One of my favorite memories from Southern Germany was our totally unplanned cow-feeding pit stop in Oberau. When the kids spotted a field of cows, they basically staged a mini mutiny until we pulled over. Those cows were so friendly and sweet (and loved mugging for the camera).
We had many smiles, laughs, and big adventures on this trip, but this moment is one of my favorites because they chose it. It wasn’t scheduled, ticketed, or color-coded on my itinerary. It was pure, spontaneous kid joy.
- Heidi
“ My favorite thing was the Sound of Music bike tour in Salzburg. I’ve seen the movie so many times and love the songs. The best part was when we rode out into the countryside and our tour guide pulled out her boom box and started playing music from the movie. She played ‘The hills are alive…’ while we were literally biking through an open field… It was like we were in the movie.” And then seeing the actual gazebo where Rolf sings ‘Sixteen Going on Seventeen’ to Liesl? So cool!"
Callan, 11 yo
“ My favorite day of the whole vacation was when we went up to the glacier (at Zugspitze) and got to play in the snow. I didn’t know places could have snow in June - this was the best surprise ever! ”
- Jake, 10 yo
“My favorite thing was riding the Alpine coaster. It was SO fast and went downhill the whole time! I wish we could’ve done it more than once!” - Max, 7 yo
Family Travel Rating for Germany:
🎉 Fun: 5/5
Germany was a home run for family fun. From racing down the Alpine coaster in Oberammergau to having snowball fights on the Zugspitze in June, every day gave the kids something to rave about. Add in our bike tours—Bryan geeking out over Munich’s history, Callan living her Sound of Music dreams—and our spontaneous cow-feeding stop in Oberau, and it’s an easy perfect score.🧘♀️ Ease: 4/5
Germany can get pricey for a family of five, especially with big-ticket activities like the Zugspitze gondola. But everyday food and attractions were reasonably priced, and bakeries became our budget-saving best friend. A mix of restaurant meals and picnics helped keep costs in check.
💰 Cost: 3/5
The cost of a 12-day trip to Germany for a family of five ranges from $12,000 to 15,000, depending on hotels, transportation, and excursions. While more expensive than a state-side road trip, it’s far more affordable than many other European hotspots.
🌴 Relaxation: 3/5
Germany offers peaceful moments—vineyards drifting by on the ferry, quiet village mornings, the soft clang of cowbells in the Alps. But with tweens and a 7-year-old, those moments come sprinkled between bathroom breaks, snack hunts, and goat-photo detours. Relaxing? Somewhat. Rewarding? Completely.
Final Verdict
When all was said and done (and all the pretzels eaten), Germany proved to be an incredible family destination—packed with big adventures, kid-approved surprises, and just enough chaos to keep things interesting. It’s the kind of trip where you come home with tired legs, full hearts, and at least 300 pictures of goats. Here’s how to know if it’s the right fit for your crew:
👨👩👧👦 Ideal Ages: 6+. Germany is pure magic for kids 6-14 yo. They’re old enough to appreciate castles, bike tours, and snowball fights in June, yet young enough to think feeding cows on the side of the road is peak vacation joy. It’s that golden age where everything is an adventure, no one’s too cool yet, and a pretzel can solve almost any crisis.
🗓️ Ideal trip length: 7-10 days. A week gives you castles, mountains, river villages, and enough bratwurst to last you the year. Stretch it to ten days and you can slow down a bit—or squeeze in bonus regions like Bavaria, the Black Forest, or even hop across to Austria for a little Sound of Music moment. Any shorter and you’ll feel like you’re auditioning for “The Amazing Race: German Edition.”
⛔ Skip Germany if you prefer . . . a vacation where nobody walks more than 20 steps. Germany is big on cobblestones, hills, and “just one more staircase to the castle!” Skip if you want zero logistics. Germany rewards planners, list-makers, and parents who carry backup snacks at all times. Avoid if you’re craving a full week of beach-lounging. Germany is amazing, but it’s more “glacier sledding” than “poolside napping.”
