When to Visit the Christmas Markets in France (and What I’d Do Differently Next Time)
Paris Christmas Market
If you’ve ever fallen down a Christmas market rabbit hole on Pinterest or Instagram, you already know: France in December looks like something straight out of a snow globe. Twinkling lights, garlands wrapped around half-timbered buildings, mulled wine steaming in ceramic mugs, and enough ornaments to convince you that yes, you absolutely doneed another one.
In November 2023, my daughter Callan (then 19 yo) and I spent a week exploring three of France’s most iconic Christmas markets — Paris, Colmar, and Strasbourg. It was magical, festive, and absolutely worth it. But like any trip, there are things I’d tweak if I were planning it again. If you’re dreaming of your own Christmas market adventure, here’s what I wish I’d known — and what I’d do differently next time.
Why Timing Matters More Than You Think
Christmas markets don’t just magically appear and stay the same until December 25. The week you choose to visit affects everything: crowds, accommodation availability, prices, the overall vibe, and even how relaxed you feel while wandering around with a cup of vin chaud in hand.
Choosing the right time can make the difference between feeling like you’re strolling through a charming holiday village… or moving in a slow-motion parade clutching your shopping bags and wondering where all these people came from.
The Best Time to Visit French Christmas Markets
In our experience, late November and the first week of December hit the sweet spot.
We visited during the very first week the markets opened, and it came with some real advantages:
Smaller crowds
Vendors fully stocked with their prettiest (and quirkiest) goods
Easier movement through stalls without elbow negotiations
Everything felt fresh and festive, and there was an exciting “opening week” energy — like the season was just waking up.
The Trickier Times to Visit (Still Magical, Just Different)
Mid-December through the week of Christmas is undeniably magical — but it’s also peak everything. More people, fewer accommodation options, and less flexibility if you’re booking last-minute or hoping to change plans on the fly.
That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go — just know you’ll want to plan ahead, pack some patience, and lean into the chaos a bit.
Best Days & Best Times of Day for the Markets
If you can, structure your days around the natural rhythm of the markets:
Weekdays are calmer than weekends
Late morning or early afternoon is best for shopping and photos
Early evening is pure ambiance — lights on, music playing, mugs clinking
The later it gets, the busier it gets. Think of evenings as vibe time rather than errand-running time.
Paris vs Colmar vs Strasbourg (At a Glance)
Each of these Christmas markets had a completely different personality — which is exactly what made visiting all three so special. From indulgent city treats to storybook charm to full-on traditional Christmas spectacle, here’s what stood out most — and what you should be sure to see and eat in each destination.
Paris: Festive, Polished, and Deliciously Indulgent
Paris Christmas markets feel seamlessly woven into city life — festive, elegant, and buzzing without feeling overwhelming. One of our favorite treats was a freshly made crêpe cooked to order, with dozens of toppings to choose from. We went with Nutella, strawberries, and bananas, and it was absolutely delicious — warm, decadent, and worth every bite.
Beyond crêpes, Paris markets offer no shortage of temptations:
Waffles and pastries fresh off the griddle
Savory galettes
Chocolates and sweets perfect for gifts (or snacks while wandering)
Mulled wine and festive hot drinks
Be sure to pause and marvel at the four-tiered Christmas pyramid, beautifully lit and slowly spinning. It’s one of those features that’s easy to walk past at first — and then impossible not to stop and watch once you notice it.
Don’t Miss This: Grab a hot crêpe and take a few minutes to simply stand back and watch the Christmas pyramid light up and spin once evening falls. It’s classic Paris holiday magic.
What makes Paris unique: the combination of everyday city energy with festive touches — Christmas here feels polished, lively, and delicious.
Paris Christmas Market
Colmar: A Fairytale You Can Walk Through
If Christmas had an official postcard, Colmar would be a serious contender.
This market is intimate, whimsical, and impossibly charming. One experience you shouldn’t skip is a ride on the magnificently lit carousel. Not only is it nostalgic and fun, but it also gives you a bird’s-eye view of the village, with twinkling lights, half-timbered buildings, and the river winding through it all below.
Colmar is especially strong when it comes to traditional Alsatian treats:
Flammekueche (Alsatian flatbread)
Bratwurst and savory sausages
Bredeles (traditional Christmas cookies)
Mulled wine and seasonal drinks
And absolutely splurge on the marzipan. Colmar’s marzipan is beautifully shaped, colorful, and crafted into animals, fruits, and intricate designs. They’re almost too pretty to eat — almost.
Worth the Splurge: Buy a couple of marzipan candies, even if you’re “just looking.” They’re unique, beautifully made, and make perfect gifts (if you don’t eat them first).
What makes Colmar unique: its storybook setting — especially at night, when the lights reflect off the river and the entire town glows.
Colmar Christmas Market
Strasbourg: Traditional, Grand, and Unapologetically Cheesy
Strasbourg fully embraces its reputation as the Capital of Christmas. The market is expansive, traditional, and filled with a sense of celebration that feels deeply rooted rather than staged.
Food lovers, especially cheese lovers, will be very happy here. Strasbourg specializes in hearty, comforting dishes:
Raclette (all the melty cheese your heart could ever want)
Bätzel, rich and satisfying cheesy noodles
Sausages and classic Alsatian fare
Mulled wine and warming holiday punches
Be sure to take a spin on the carousel conveniently located in the city center near the cathedral, then arrive early enough to secure a seat in one of the festive tents. Sitting down with a warm drink, listening to live music, and watching the market buzz around you was one of our favorite slow moments of the entire trip.
And then there’s the showstopper: the gigantic Christmas tree in Place Kléber, towering at roughly 30 meters (nearly 100 feet) tall. Standing beneath it truly gives you a sense of scale — and why Strasbourg takes its Christmas title so seriously.
Slow Down Here: Arrive early, find a seat in a market tent, order something warm, and listen to the music while the crowds build. This is Strasbourg at its best.
What makes Strasbourg unique: its sheer scale and tradition — it feels like Christmas on a grand stage.
Strasbourg Christmas Market
Each market brought something completely different to the experience, which is why allocating enough time — and knowing what not to miss — matters so much.
If you’re deciding how to prioritize your itinerary, I break down how Paris, Colmar, and Strasbourg compare in atmosphere, food, shopping, and overall experience here: France’s Christmas Markets: A Mother-Daughter Dream Trip.
If I Could Do It Again…
This is where hindsight earns its keep. If I were planning the same trip again, I would stay no fewer than two days in each market. Callan and I had one week to see three cities, which meant travel days on the train from Paris to Colmar, then Colmar to Strasbourg — plus checking into a new Airbnb each time. None of this was difficult, but it did quietly steal time from wandering, sipping, and lingering.
And lingering matters. With only one full day per market, you don’t really get to experience the incredible variety of food and drink. There’s only so much raclette, mulled wine, pastries, and festive cocktails you can fit into a single day — both logistically and physically.
Being somewhere for a few days also changes how you experience it. Vendors rotate stock. Your mood shifts. The light hits differently in the morning than it does at night. Just like visiting a favorite local shop multiple days in a row, you notice new things each time.
Another bonus of staying longer? Shopping logistics. When your hands (and bags) are already full, it’s nice knowing you can come back tomorrow for the candle, the ornament, or the hand-carved wooden trinket you talked yourself out of earlier.
Timing-wise, I might also consider going the first week of December instead of the last week of November. While opening week brought lighter crowds and fully stocked vendors — no worrying about items selling out — arriving a week later can mean smoother operations, more entertainment, and that fully-settled holiday buzz.
Finally, with multiple days, the experience slows down. Day one is for sightseeing, photos, and shopping. Day two (or three) is when you sit with a warm drink, listen to live music, people-watch, and simply enjoy being there — no agenda required.
Booking Accommodations: Earlier Than You Think
One thing that consistently surprises people: how far in advance accommodations book up for Christmas markets.
Many travelers reserve hotels or apartments 6–12 months ahead, especially in smaller cities like Colmar. Waiting too long often means fewer options, higher prices, or staying farther out than you’d planned.
Location also matters. Staying closer to the historic center costs more, but it makes the experience smoother — popping back to your room to drop off purchases, warm up, or take a short break before heading back out. That convenience adds up fast after hours in the cold.
If you’re trying to save money:
Book as early as you can, ideally with flexible cancellation
Prioritize location over size
Stay multiple nights in one place rather than hopping cities daily
Consider nearby towns with easy train access for larger cities
Final Thoughts
France’s Christmas markets are every bit as magical as they look — especially when you plan with intention. A little extra time, a central place to stay, and realistic expectations go a long way toward making the experience feel joyful instead of rushed.
And if you’re deciding which markets deserve space on your itinerary, don’t miss my full breakdown and rankings here: France’s Christmas Markets: A Mother-Daughter Dream Trip.
Because if you’re going to chase Christmas magic, you might as well do it right.
